The morning was grey and drizzly as D. and I  made our way out of Estella on grimy streets. There is an unusual “fountain of wine” structure on the outskirts of the town. Since we were encountering this early in the morning, we investigated but did not partake of much.

From there the way winds over and around broad fields of barley and wheat, turned brown and cut short now in September. We have have views before us and behind us for some kilometers, with pilgrims dotting the path every few hundred meters.

Our destination is the albergue in Los Arcos. It is a municipal albergue, that is, one administered by the town. Like the others of this class, it has a no-reservations policy – you have to physically be there in order to register. Thus there is some amount of tension each time as to whether there will be space, when a lot of people are on the Camino. The alternative is to book everything in advance at private albergues or hotels. However there is a loss of flexibility, spontaneity and freedom with that approach. On the other hand again, we have to keep moving in order to be in Los Arcos in the first hour or so after the albergue open in the early afternoon. This is an example of what is sometimes known as a “bed race”.

We get to Los Arcos, and find the albergue, with a long line of pilgrims already waiting outside. Periodically the hospitalera (a Dutch lady) comes out and makes a long announcement (in Dutch). The main point seems to be that either the people already here will have a roof over our heads here tonight, or we won’t (I am unable to figure out which). The line moves very slowly but eventually we find a place. I see later that the albergue does end up completely full. We meet  new people such as a Japanese couple, and some people from before such as the English poet.

One does hand-washing of clothes almost every day, because we only have 2 ( or at most 3 ) of any clothing item. I had washed some clothes and hung them out to dry, but came out later to find that they were gone! After a minute I realize that someone has kindly moved them under an awning nearby (there was a rain squall in the afternoon.)