I am finding it amazing how people leave the albergue so early.  We can wake up at 6 AM in a  dormitory-style room, and find that half the beds are now empty. It’s not so easy to achieve this quietly, when you realize that there can be 10-12 people in sometimes absurdly close proximity. And since I assume that these pilgrims are not sleeping with their backpacks already on, they will have to get everything into the pack, in the dark. Even with the austere and lightweight pilgrim packing style, there are many items to keep track of.  Then brushing teeth, and perhaps having something to eat and drink. Nevertheless, I don’t notice these early risers – at the most I wake up briefly and see a figure with a dimmed headlamp moving in the darkness, out of the room, at perhaps 4:30 AM.

We don’t leave quite so early as that, but it is still before sunrise when we make our way back past the bridge at Puente la Reina, and resume the path westwards. We pause a moment to appreciate the view of the dawn over the town.

What makes the landscape here so picturesque, is that it is neither flat, nor very mountainous. Instead, there are broad plains and hills. This makes for a continuous series of inspiring views. The towns are clusters of stone buildings perched on the hills. In these towns,for example in Cirauqui, there are old doors to be seen which are quite striking.

Walking today with D. and L.  We stopped three times to have Clara Limon, which is a mixture of beer and lemonade (or lemon soda). Also known as Shandy, or Radler. A great choice for hiking in hot weather.

In the kitchen of the albergue ask if I can sit in a spot at the table and a friendly Greek man says, “in my country, we have a saying, ‘there is always room for good people’ ” .